“Your hair can be an extension of your hygiene and can also reflect vitamin deficiencies and problems going on internally,” says Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York City. “If your hair and scalp are unhealthy, it can lead to itching, inflammation, and untreated chronic skin conditions like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and alopecia,” adds Lamb. Simply put, there are a lot of reasons you should care about your hair — and want to keep it healthy — in addition to looking good. Here, discover how to keep your hair in its best shape possible, so it’s as healthy and fresh as ever. According to the experts interviewed, these are some of the main signs of healthy hair, though they may not apply to all hair types. “We have to be careful not to define hair health by certain cultural standards,” says Lamb.
Exhibits little breakage and minimal sheddingDoes not break when it’s brushedDoes not contain dandruffReflects lightHas sheen and lusterContains moisture
“There are universal indicators of hair health, though hair type impacts the intensity of these things,” says Luis Pacheco, celebrity hair colorist and founder of TO112, a beauty and lifestyle brand. For example: “Naturally dehydrated hair types, like kinky and curly hair or fully gray hair, will be prone to dryness — but if it starts breaking or feeling brittle, you need to take a look at what is going on,” Pacheco says. Here, discover the signs of damaged hair, though they may vary depending on hair type:
The hair is brittle.Lots of hair is removed when running a brush or comb through it.Big clumps of hair fall out.You have visible bald spots or can easily see your scalp.The strands break at mid shaft.The hair lacks luster or shine.It is split at the ends.It is hard to detangle.It is drier than normal.
Don’t Overprocess Your Hair
Do Choose a Shampoo and Conditioner That’s Specific to Your Hair Type
Don’t Overdry Your Hair
Another method of overprocessing? Using your hair dryer and hot styling tools too regularly. “Blow-dryers, curling irons, and flat irons can burn your hair and your scalp — and can cause your hair to break and fall out,” says Wattenberg.
Do Shield Your Hair and Scalp From the Sun
Don’t Skip the Conditioner
Also, follow a shampoo and conditioner routine that’s based on your specific hair. “Styling practices vary completely based on hair type and desired style,” says Lamb. “For example, if you have dreadlocks, they can often be washed monthly, regularly conditioned, and protected at night — but if your hair is straighter, this styling practice would not lead to healthy hair,” Lamb adds. “In general, though, you should wash and condition your hair at the frequency that is necessary for your style and hair type. This can be daily or weekly or monthly.”
Do Protect Your Hair While Swimming
Although swimming is great exercise, ample time in the pool isn’t ideal for your hair. “Chemicals in the pool can dry your hair and irritate it,” says Wattenberg.
Don’t Intensely Brush Your Hair
Although you may be tempted to get out every last tangle, too much brushing isn’t good for your tresses, especially if you use all your strength to remove those knots. Try as best as you can to brush gently to prevent breakage. Ideally, you’ll want to use a wide-tooth brush with smooth prongs (though ask your stylist if there’s a special brush that’s best for your hair type).
Do Conduct Your Own Research on Products Before Buying Them
A surprisingly long list of ingredients typically goes into making hair-care products, and not all of them are healthy, to say the least. One study discovered a potential connection between breast cancer and personal use of hair dye (that is, products bought over the counter), though more research is needed to understand whether hair dye itself causes an increased risk of breast cancer. In the research, when white women used permanent hair dye one or more times in a 12-month period, their risk of developing breast cancer was 9 percent higher, compared with women who didn’t use any. Black women who used permanent hair dye one or more times in a month had an even greater risk — 45 percent higher than those who didn’t use it. The study involved 46,709 participants.
Don’t Go Too Long Without a Haircut
When your hair stylist suggests that you come back for a haircut every few months, it’s not just to keep you as a regular client. “Regular haircuts help avoid damage from the ends up — split ends run up the shaft and weaken the hair, exposing it to moisture loss and tangles,” says Pacheco. Walker recommends a cut every six to eight weeks to prevent damage. The same goes for people who are trying to grow out their hair. “If you’re looking to grow your hair, you might be considering skipping a trim — but reshaping and trimming your hair regularly keeps it looking strong and healthy, as opposed to brittle and thin, while you move through the growing process,” Walker adds.
Do Consider a Silk Pillowcase
Sleeping with a silk pillowcase is trendy right now — and for good reason. “I suggest all hair types should consider a silk pillowcase, so you aren’t roughing up the cuticle while you sleep,” says Pacheco. “This is particularly beneficial for fizz-prone, curly, kinky, and fragile hair types,” he adds.
Don’t Let Braids, Cornrows, or Weaves Get Too Tight
Do Go to a Professional for Relaxers
You can get your fill of healthy hair tips straight from dermatologists on this organization’s site. One of our favorites? Wash your hair based on how much oil your scalp produces. For example, someone with oilier hair might have to wash more often than someone with less oily hair. American Cancer Society Because the scalp is a prevalent place for skin cancer growth, this site is an important go-to for learning the signs and getting more information about sun protection and skin cancer prevention.
Favorite Support Network for Hair Loss
National Alopecia Areata Foundation Here you can find out facts about alopecia, which is an autoimmune disease that causes hair loss on the scalp, face, and sometimes elsewhere on the body. You’ll also be able to join their support group, and they can also send you an info packet with tips and advice specifically for people with alopecia.
Favorite Resource for Hair and Mental Health
PsychoHairapy Do you ever vent to your hairstylist? They are often the first people to hear about what’s weighing on your mind (if you have an appointment that day). So, this organization teaches barbers and stylists how to do “mental health first aid” to help their clients.
Favorite Organization for Finding Healthy Hair Products
Environmental Working Group Not sure which beauty products are healthy and which aren’t? This database includes the products that the organization deems “healthiest” (as in no questionable chemicals) and best for the environment. Just know that some experts find the Environmental Working Group’s recommendations to be too extreme, so run any concerns by your healthcare team. Also, it’s wise to pay attention to your hair and to “listen” to what it’s trying to tell you. “A person’s hair is an indication of the state of their overall health,” says Pacheco. “Unexplained breakage, hair loss, and the feeling of dry, brittle hair can be indicators of health changes you should look into,” Pacheco adds. Thus, hair is more than simply something to be styled at the top of your head — it’s a window into your overall health, and it needs to be treated mindfully, just as you treat the rest of your body.